Nation: One morning in mid-July, I drove north out of Houston at the crack of dawn, three hours up Highway 59 into the cleaner air and dense, piney woods of deep East Texas. It was Sunday, and I was on my way to church. Id been up that way before: my father was born and raised in northeast Texasin fact, my whole family is from Texasand Im no stranger to Bible Belt Christianity. But Id never been to a church like the one where I was headed that morning: the small, progressive Austin Heights Baptist...