Guardian: Unless you've eaten a lukewarm, soil-like bowl of Beanfeast, cooked over a single gas ring stove on a windy beach in Scotland, you will never understand the drudgery of being a vegetarian in the 1990s.
Back when Portobello mushroom burgers and halloumi skewers sounded more like elocution exercises than dishes, I was being brought up by a vegetarian mother and, well, let's call him a hungry father. We rarely ate meat at home, choosing instead those delicious packets of Beanfeast, Quorn chunks and,...