The man who makes Australia's most famous wine, and one of its most expensive at $785 per bottle, is backing proposed changes to the way wine is taxed across the industry to a system where cheap wines would be slugged with higher taxes. Peter Gago, the winemaker behind Penfolds Grange since 2002, says the only way the $4 billion wine industry in Australia will thrive over the long-term is to shift further up the quality scale and embrace premiumisation.